Sunday, May 29, 2011

Reflections on a 16-day trip to New Zealand

No matter how many experiences I've had traveling the world, I'm still amazed that in the morning I can be in one part of the world and in 13 hours, be over 6500 miles away in another part (Auckland - San Francisco). I think about the ancient travelers who sailed across the seas for months to find a new home guided only by the stars in the sky. There was often a bit of turbulence in the friendly skies of Qantas, but nothing like huge waves crashing over the mast of the boat or gale force winds sending you sliding across the deck (well, except maybe in Milford Sound...). (Sketch below from nzetc.org)


I'd always wanted to travel to Australia and New Zealand. My husband's London-born great-grandfather spent a year in the late 1800s in Australia and 3 years as an LDS missionary in Samoa. I wanted to see what enticed Great Grandpa Joe Carpenter to travel to far away lands. The first time I met my husband Brent, he spoke of becoming a flying doctor in Australia someday. (He became a doctor and could pilot a small plane, but sadly, never made it to Australia.) I chose New Zealand for my first adventure "down under."

I found that New Zealand is a "Wow,... beautiful!" country with snow-capped mountains reflected onto lakes, lush rain forest, grassy green hills dotted with more sheep and cattle (and deer) than people, with rainbows and gorgeous beaches.




Except for the big cities like Auckland and Wellington, "even left-side" driven cars don't dominate the landscape and the friendly Kiwis all seem concerned with the environment and what to do to protect their homeland, which is about the size of California but with 1/9 the population. I may be wrong with the exact figures, but I believe the Maoris, constitute around 10-12% of the population and over 90% of them live on the North Island. The blending of cultures, Maori, Asian, Polynesian and European, is fascinating and the country tries hard to make it work.

Seeing the beauty of New Zealand, I wonder how any Kiwi can leave this country to live elsewhere in the world. Obviously there is a natural wonderlust to see the world (I always run into Aussies, Canadians, and Kiwis in my worldly travels) but also a necessity to find employment as there are only so many jobs available in some fields. Unemployment in NZ is roughly 6.8%. New Zealand also seems to send a disproportionally high number (considering its size) of troops into war,  in support of the British Commonwealth.

The North Island is more populated than the South, but it is on the frontier-like, rugged South Island where the sports-minded can find abundant choices to go hiking, diving, fishing, jetboat and ocean cruising, bungy jumping (invented in NZ), zorbing (see below, photo from worldtag.us), water and snow skiing, kayaking, hunting, snowboarding, rowing, camping, and cycling. In fact, most sports that involve scary water, sky, ground or body contact is done in New Zealand. 


Rugby World Cup 2011 mania all over NZ!! OMG! Lots of contruction in Wellington related to the worldwide crowd expected for the competition this coming fall. Here's a YouTube video (by Steve181) of the All Blacks NZ National rugby team doing the intimidating Haka (Maori war chant) during a game. (Refresh the page if the video doesn't come up)


I found that unlike the Aussies who revere the possum, Kiwis LOATH them, because according to the anti-possum movement, 70 million possums eat their way through 21,000 tons of fruit and foliage every night! So you will find creative ways of using and selling possum fur -- sweaters, hats, "tittie covers!" and wall hangings. (The Aussie and Kiwi possum is not the same as the American opossum.) Nevertheless, the animal looks cute to most tourists. Aww... (photo by Richard-Seaman.com)


The food is not unlike, nor prepared much differently than, American food, but iced tea is not commonly served, nor ice in drinks. I confused a waitress once asking for hot tea, because "hot" tea is usually the only tea they serve. As in the States, lamb is expensive -- but I loved eating lamb that hasn't been previously frozen. The hormone-free beef is wonderful. The Kiwis do love their Vegemitet or Marmite, which though rich in the B vitamins, is extremely salty and is spread thinly on buttered toast -- it is definitely an acquired taste. Pork and beans was always offered at the breakfast buffets that also included typical American hot and cold breakfast foods. Many Kiwis grab an inexpensive meat pie or grilled sandwich (panini) for lunch. How I miss the meat pies now that I'm back home! Green lipped mussels are available -- if you like mussels -- served cold or steamed Belgian-style with garlic and wine. I enjoyed many meals of local fish. Many restaurants seem like to serve their food stacked on a plate in a tall tower -- meat over veggies over potatoes or rice -- it can be quite interesting. Here's the  US$15 Fat Dog Burger with veggie and green salad, cheese, fried egg, onion ring (secured with a long spike) my friend Aline had in Rotorua.

An amusing controversy is brewing in Wellington. Some are trying to construct a "Wellywood" sign (similar to the Hollywood sign) in the hills of Wellington to draw attention to the thriving Wellington movie industry to the disapproval of others who proudly feel they don't need to emulate anyone. I agree.

I was always asked where I was from and whether I was having a good time. Every Kiwi I met wanted me to be enjoying their country, and I did. What a great time I had!


Ka kite ano! (Farewell, until I see you again...)

Wednesday, May 25, 2011

Wednesday: Wellington, Te Papa Tongarewa, Cuba Street, Lambton Quay

Today was our last day in Wellington. I fly home to California tomorrow. It's another windy day and there is intermittent light rain. Some of us walk along the harbor to the Te Papa Tongarewa National Museum, some take a taxi.


 Watch this guy jump in the cold, cold water for a swim!

      


The Te Papa Tongarewa is a spectacular museum, thoughtfully planned, and extremely innovative. We have a wonderfully-energetic guide named Roger, who Sue tells us is a popular broadcaster, now retired. (His laugh reminded me of Nathan Lane from the movie Bird Cage.)
Looking up...
Looking down...
He speaks of tectonic plate movements and the volatile geology of NZ, so crossed with earthquake faults.



There are displays of the Prehistoric Animals

and the Maori myth of creation, Mother Earth "Papatuanuku" 

Then Roger speaks of the migration of native Polynesians from islands in the west Pacific hundreds of thousands of years ago. Then some peoples headed north to Hawaii and another group headed south to New Zealand and were the forefathers of the Maori.



 Imagine what the Europeans thought when they first met the native peoples...

Artist depiction of Maori wharenui (meeting house)




The real thing... a wharenui




Even the Maori women had facial tattoos (ta moko) -- most often on their chins.



Roger also led us through the displays of natural history -- flora and fauna.


Te Papa displays a Giant Squid encased in silicone caught in 2003 in Antarctica and thawed 5 years later for display. When caught it was thought the squid measured 33 feet, but the tentacles shrank considerably after death and measured only 14 feet. The eye alone was 12-14 inches in diameter.





The exploration areas for children were inviting to adults, too. Here is a life-size model of a Blue Whale's heart.


On the grounds, a restful Japanese garden


After our tour, Aline and I walked in the misty rain over to Cuba Street - full of shops and places to eat. 

We stop at the R & S Satay Noodle House and I order Wonton Soup with BBQ Pork -- comfort food at its best.

Cuba Street's famous Bucket Fountain


We get turned around a few times as we search for Lambton Quay near our hotel, the Wellington Travelodge. Tonight we all gather for the Farewell Dinner. It's John and Anne's 14th wedding anniversary, so Sue assists them in renewing their vows and also highlights our travel adventures with us. And Ed and Susan dance. I will miss this heartygroup of "ratbaggers." It's been great fun.






 It's beefsteak (no eggs this time), "mash" and raspberry cheesecake for dessert.




Tuesday, May 24, 2011

Tuesday: Wellington, Cable Car, WETA Cave, Roses, Church, Theater

Wellington is a very windy city. They didn't tell us until AFTER the ferry crossing, but apparently the Strait can be quite rough with 15 foot swells. We lucked out, it was quite calm last night. It may rain, but no one seems to carry an umbrella--too windy. Steve is the driver and terrific guide of our half-day minibus tour of Wellington.

The "Beehive" Paliament building seen through droplets of rain on the windshield


Some homes have their own private cable car...




First stop -- the Mt.Victoria Lookout.



We follow with a visit to the WETA Cave where we take a behind-the-scenes look at Peter Jackson's studio and look at artifacts from his movies.


Model of Rivendell


And of course, an Orc
Interior of WETA Cave theater showing the development and continuing success of WETA. (I shot this photo before we were asked not to take photos ... oops)

 The town honors Jackson with a tripod-mounted camera sculpture.

One of the activities one is encouraged to do in Wellington is "go film a trilogy"  ha ha!



At the Lady Norwood Rose Garden in the Botanical Gardens, we stop for a spot of tea, as it starts to sprinkle.









A final stop is at the Old St. Paul's church -- native timber Colonial Gothic built in 1866.


The US Marine Corp and American flag behind it  are displayed because Marines were assigned to protect NZ during WWII and they selected this church for worship.

 Aline and I meet up with Val, the sister of one of our stateside Kiwi friends, to have lunch.
Steak pie with chili sauce

We ride the Cable Car to the Botanical Gardens at the top. 



Her husband Richard joins us and we drive out to the South Coast to see the beaches and also to visit a number of artist galleries.


Sculpture near the water's edge


And we visited a pet store so Aline could buy souvenirs for her canine friends whom she never forgets while traveling.



We all dine at the Circa Theater Restaurant (I order a local NZ fish over veggies)
and see the quirky play at the Circa Theater - Lead Wait - about a woman, her former lover, her intimate brother, and her current lover, a bit of nudity and swearing, fighting over bath water, a dead baby's skull, and fish frying in a pan, it's all good. Tomorrow will be our last day in NZ...