Wednesday, May 11, 2011

Wednesday: Bay of Islands - Russell

We're scheduled to go on a catamaran tour of the Bay of Islands, and we go ahead, but heavy rain is expected. I have on 2 T-shirts, one long-sleeved shirt and a warm vest (because as you know, my jacket and raincoat are in my still missing suitcase... sigh).




We're surprised and delighted by about 20-25 dolphins frolicking in the water.
There were even a couple of babies swimming in the group.

We deliver and pick up mail from the isolated islands, where at the sound of the boat horn,
the "mailmen" runs to the end of the piers with their dogs. He had great legs -- the postman, not the dogs. One of the dogs is afraid of the ramp, so he stays at the top.


The swells are horrific so we travel within the inner bays, piloted by a handsome Maori named Tiger(?).





Thirty minutes across the bay from Paihia, we have a wonderful van tour of charming Russell, lead by local guide Steve. Russell was the first permanent European settlement in NZ. In those days, it had the nickname, "Hell-Hole of the Pacific" because its first Europeans were ship deserters and convicts who had finished their sentences from New South Wales. Later I checkout the Russell Museum filled with Maori artifacts and history.





For a good cheap lunch, fish and chips at the RSA - Retired Servicemen's Association


We also see the printing presses at Pompalier Mission House. Presses brought over by the French to print religious material.





We visit the historic Christ Church cemetery where both Maori and descendants of Europeans  are buried.

The grave stone of Tamati Waka Nene  - a Ngapuhi chief who was largely responsible for the Maori's acceptance of the Treaty of Waitangi


For dinner I chose braised Angus beef cheeks over blue cheese-infused polenta at the Duke of Marlborough Restaurant (in Russell). Dessert is a lemon panna cotta and French toast-flavored ice cream. (I can't go on eating this way...) We are literally waddling as we catch the 7 PM ferry back to Paihia. And YES(!), my luggage is waiting for me when I get back to my room. Tonight I am a happy traveler!


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